Acme Restaurant in Rushcutters Bay, new cool Sydney restaurant , chef Mitch Orr – ex 121BC and Duke’s Bistro and also did a short stint at Osteria Francescana in Modena (ranked No. 3 in Worlds Best 50 Restaurants). Acme’s menu of fresh, intriguing and re-invented classic dishes – modern Italian cooking that embraces simple core beliefs.
Sitting at the pass, on opening night was the place to check out the kitchen. The menu – exciting small dishes followed by pasta all built to share – chef Mitch Orr told us that the pasta is all house made and it showed. Starting with that Korean favourite – OB Golden lager – a German style lager that’s brewed in Korea – we ate pickled cucumber. You’re presented with bright, green batons of fresh cucumber that’s been pickled in gin zest of lime. Chilled and spiritous – perfect cleanser to start the meal.
Beef tartare, walnut, witlof – the beef dressed with a sharp freshness contrasting with the crunch of the witlof, delicious. A classic with a new treatment.
Asparagus, brown butter – fresh asparagus spears of the deepest green – emulsified brown butter sprinkled with toasted quinoa. Essence of simplicity with a minimal approach.
Mitch Orr’s remake of the classic pasta carbonara – this time with macaroni, pigs head, egg yolk. The pig’s head brisket was fried golden and crisp – the egg yolk sitting on top with a small amount of fresh chilli that lifted this brilliant pasta.
Jerusalem artichoke ice cream, hazelnut praline and slivers of toasted artichoke. The ice cream was not overly sweet but so smooth and almost a little oily in texture like green tea ice cream. To balance that, the hazelnut praline added a surprising crunch and sweetness with the toasted artichoke slithers adding a slight smokiness and also a playfulness.
ACME restaurant is just what we need in Sydney – a little bit classic with a 2014 approach to food. It’s open Tuesday to Saturday from 5 pm.
60 Bayswater Road, Rushcutters Bay, Sydney 2011