Rino is featured in a AFR article – about the new breed of Paris restaurants, often with chefs who are not necessarily French. An acquaintance of sydneycool, a local Parisian food journalist, recommended Rino as one of the new restaurants in Paris not to miss. So without much delay, sydneycool went along to check out Rino and the food of chef Giovanni Passerini.
Rino is in the 11th arrondissement in a street near Marche d’ Aligre, one of Paris’s daily markets and is one of the cool new places to live and eat in the east of Paris – Bones, Septime and Au Passage are here as well. By Paris standards, Rino delivers a very different food experience.
The set lunch menu – entree and main for 23 euros or plus a dessert for 28 euros.
The entree was anchovies from Saint Jean de Luz, in the south west of France near the Spanish border – they were fleshy with a mild fresh flavour and just the natural, minerally taste coming through from the heads and inner organs. Before deep frying, they were encased in a whisper only of the finest batter – also on the plate was finely sliced cucumber, zucchini and prawn powder. It was wonderful to look at and all the flavours were in perfect harmony on the palate – what a simple and great start.
The plat du jour – onglet de boeuf or lieu jaune (a white fish – called pollock in english). We chose the beef – a cut that is often used in French restaurants, in Sydney we might call it skirt steak. The beef – served with olive paste, snap peas, baby turnips and wild rocket – the meat was carmelised to a sweetness and a light crunch on the outer and rich and rare on the inside.
The dessert – rice pudding, fresh peaches with peach and saffron gelato. light soft creamy grains of rice, highlighted with some small shards of meringue. The peaches were amazingly fresh and full of flavour, together with the sharpness from the gelato it was an end to such a simple but well thought through menu that traveled from the ocean, paddock and the ground as it lifted and decended the flavours like marks on a music score.
Rino is a small restaurant – about 20 seats – the service was warm and informative. The wine list – a well thought out European list – we tried a champagne and an Italian pinot noir. It’s open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday and for lunch on Friday and Saturday.
Rino delivers a new simple approach without the formality you often get in Parisian restaurants. The restaurant filled up quickly with the smart food crowd and locals. Rino is definitely setting the standard for cool Parisian restaurants.
46 rue Trousseau, 11th arrondissement, Paris 75011
Metro – Ledru Rollin