Colin Fassnidge, who’s at the helm of this restaurant does that very well. We’ve visited Four In Hand many times and have only experienced very good cooking, clear vision of the end result on the palate, done in the classic way. And in today’s food world with fusion and more often confusion in menus – this style of cooking from Four In Hand is great to see and enjoy.
We were informed today by Raurri who was running the front of house on Sunday that the pot au feu, which was new to the menu and still on trial, might be on the menu of Colin’s new restaurant in Surry Hills – 4 14 due to open very soon, just off Bourke Street. So always ones to try something interesting from very good chefs we said without delay, the pot au feu will be our lunch for today thank you! – he did say to let them know what we thought, wondered if he meant it?
We started our lunch with a glass of champagne. When the pot au feu was brought to our table perfectly presented in a pale blue cast iron cooking pot, we asked Raurri to suggest a wine from the wine list (by the glass) that would be matched well with it. He suggested a soave classico which was fine. Pot Au Feu (cooking on fire) – the chicken which was delicately seasoned under the skin and cooked whole and then sectioned into manageable pieces. Cooked in a light stock with vegetables, in this case – swede, carrots, cabbage, kale and celery with slices of fried bread with parmesan on top. This is a classic, hearty style dish that says provincial France or Ireland.
As usual, we went for the Four in Hand cheeseboard – they have always done this very well – a great selection served at the perfect temperature with homemade lavash, raw apple and creamy apple sauce. Today, we chose a Langres soft washed rind from Champagne, France, a magnificent, buttery Cashel from Tipperary in Ireland and Fleur de Maquis – a blend of ewes, cows and goat milk from Corsica covered in cumin seeds in a similar style to Ossau Iraty.
We at sydneycool love Four in Hand – it has a very local feel, quiet Paddington street, good cooking in the kitchen and sharp service upfront. And the pub next door is not half bad for a pint either.
PS really looking forward to the new Colin Fassnidge addition, 414 Bourke St – opening very soon in Surry Hills
Four In Hand Dining Room
105 Sutherland St, Paddington 2021